I first went to China two years ago and came back proclaiming, “I have seen the future… and I don’t like it”. But the trip to China – and then Japan- I took this Christmas has forced me to rethink my earlier assessment. For while Shanghai in particular replicates the look and feel of many modern cities around the globe, the historic parts of China are unique and beautiful. 
This trip allowed me and my partner to take in the historic parts of Wuxi – one and half hours inland from Shanghai – and of Qingdao, a relatively small Chinese city of eight or nine million(!) in China’s north-east.


In Wuxi I was also privileged to attend a traditional Chinese wedding which was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But it was the Huishan historic part of Wuxi that blew me away. Because China’s cities have been so dramatically transformed during China’s economic boom, some of the historic built environments that are left are now being preserved and renovated. Merchant houses of two and three stories face streetscapes on one side that are pedestrian oriented and beautiful canals on the other side. This complex included temples and gardens that were given a timelessness by the chanting of the Buddhist monks who were conducting a ceremony during our time there.
Wuxi is less well known than the historic towns of Suzhou and Zhouzhuang, both of which have Venice like qualities because they are built around beautiful bridge-crossed canal systems. Both are within 100kms of Shanghai, while Wuxi is another 40km. Wuxi is also home to the world’s largest Buddha statue, the Lingshan Grand Buddha.

I initially thought that the temple complex of which the Buddha was a part was going to be some kind of spiritual theme park, but the presence of devout Buddhist nuns prostrating themselves and a number of spectacular places of worship actually made this a deeply spiritual experience. This was also where I had one of the best meals of the entire trip: all vegetarian, delicious tofu dishes.
Food is so central to Chinese daily life that anywhere in China can be a foodie’s delight. What intrigued me was the pride locals took in their particular regional food variations and nowhere was this more true than in Qingdao, two hours flight north of Shanghai. A coastal town, Qingdao not only boasts wonderful seafood, but an award winning waterfront development (the Summer Olympics were hosted here in 2008) and an uninterrupted waterfront promenade that extends for more than forty kilometres. 


Qingdao has a German history, having been occupied by Germany from the late nineteenth century to 1945, hence the world famous Tsing Tao beer (available at New World in Freemans Bay!) and its annual hosting of the world’s largest beer festival. Qingdao’s historic town centre gravitates out from the impressive Catholic cathedral and includes a large sector of former colonial homes –in the Badaguan district – built in the jugend style, reminiscent of a European (or Scandinavian – it reminded me of parts of Helsinki).


From Qingdao we flew to Osaka (Air New Zealand has direct flights to and from their Kansai airport) where we stayed one night before heading to Kyoto. In Osaka the Castle is a popular attraction, well worth visiting. But nothing compares to Spaworld, a complex over several floors with “European” and “Asian” themed spas. When I first arrived I thought I had died and gone to heaven as the sex-segregated venue was full of naked young men – mainly Japanese but with a smattering of Europeans – uninhibitedly enjoying everything from a salt sauna to the outdoor thermal pools of varying temperatures. On the second occasion we visited – a Sunday night – there was a very cruisy atmosphere here, with straight fathers and their children mixing apparently quite comfortably with gay guys. 


After a night in Osaka we used our Japan Rail’s rail pass to travel the hour or so to Kyoto where we stayed close to the Philosopher’s walk and the string of historic temples and gardens along this spectacular path in the historic eastern part of the city. The temples and gardens were spectacular enough, but the first snowfall of the season gave the whole experience a surreal quality. 
Perhaps most importantly, however, was my travelling companion, Jamie, who originally hails from Qingdao (where his family still live). Travelling together reveals much about a relationship and Jamie was a caring and unflappable partner who gave me new insights into what it means to be a part of a culture – the Chinese – whose influence in the world will only grow in my lifetime. But even if you are not fortunate enough to be travelling with a local, China and Japan provide breath-taking experiences for the tourist who is open to different ways of viewing the world.


Some of the historic streets in Kyoto were among the most beautiful places I have seen anywhere in the world and could teach contemporary planners a great deal about quality urban design.
I was very moved by the beauty and simplicity of Japanese design. Japan appears invitingly civilised, orderly and harmonious. There was very little English spoken, but the road signs and announcements on buses and trains were all in English so it was very easy to find our way around. When catching the cable car to the Arima onsen (hot pools) that have been in continuous use for 700 years, being able to find your way is not unimportant because the experience of sitting in the Golden and Silver Spa waters here is unique, deeply relaxing, and not to be missed.


It may sound as if we did little shopping, but the range of beverages and ice creams available at the equivalent of the “dairy” in Japan – not to mention the dispensing machines at every corner – made for a wonderful experience of trying new tastes. And the beef in the restaurants – and not just the renowned Kobe beef – was superlative in its tenderness and flavour.
If you’re headed for the bright lights of Tokyo, be sure to check out gaybourhood The Shinjuku while you’re there. Packed to the rafters with tiny bars, dance clubs, 24-hour saunas and other gay-owned enterprises, the area is perfect for finding people to spend time with!

| Stephen Rainbow